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Well suited: What you should know before picking out your first suit

Kateland Harris,
Grand Central Magazine

A good idea is to think of accessories when putting together a suit. Maybe add color with a tie, or for more of a classier look invest in a pair of cuff links. Photograph by Nicole Blankenship
(Click here for more images.)

After years of going out on Thursday nights with close friends, tailgating at athletic events, and pulling yourself out of bed just in time for class, it’s probably difficult to imagine any other way of living your life.

Just thinking about entering the real world after college is daunting to some students who have gotten used to the relaxed college atmosphere.

Others, however, are energized and inspired by all the possibilities that can be pursued after college.

First things first: ditch the ratty college T-shirts, sweat pants and flip-flops promptly after earning your degree.

You are an adult in society now. It’s time to dress like one.

Dressed for success

For men in particular, knowing how to dress to be successful can be surprisingly difficult.

If you’re one of those guys who are staring down graduation and the full-time job that follows, but don’t know how to dress the part, you’re in luck.

I met with Nick Verreos and Andrae Gonzalo from the second season of Heidi Klum’s Project Runway. They enlightened me on the art of dressing appropriately in the workforce. They explained how hard it is for men to let go of the T-shirts, ripped jeans-flip-flop look – a ‘uniform’ of sorts for most college males.

Re-learning how to dress is a difficult process for most – but it is important to do so. The way you dress is so important that it sometimes makes or breaks an interview.

When choosing the proper dress, these are the four factors to consider.

Industry

Your chosen career field will determine the overall appearance required. For example, an apparel designer is allowed to show off their flair for fashion more so than a receptionist at a hotel.

Dress code

What is expected for your specific job within the chosen industry? For instance, take two people that work in different departments of a shoe company. The employee who presents the shoes to clientele and potential buyers will need to dress in a more professional manner than the person constructing the shoes in an environment where clothing can get ruined.

There are different ways to personalize a suit the displayed suits show that the pockets and buttons vary as well as the color. Photograph by Nicole Blankenship
(Click here for more images.)

Location

Where you work also affects what you potentially wear. If you work for a company in Hawaii, the appropriate dress attire may be polo shirts, khaki shorts and dock shoes. Compare that to the black suit and heavy trench you would probably wear while navigating the brisk streets of New York City.

Expectations

It’s imperative that your clothing reflects a client’s expectations. For example, bank customers will be more comfortable talking to a teller in a suit and tie than to a teller dressed in an everyday T-shirt and jeans.

Well suited

Men are often clueless when it comes to purchasing a suit.

First off: the boxy jacket is out! Look for a suit that is fitted close to the body but still allows comfort. It’s okay to show that you have a nice body by wearing something that fits properly.

When searching for the perfect fit, there are three classic types of tailored suits to consider: English, American and Italian.

English suits

These are designed in a “riding style,” which means they accommodate for movement. This type of suit is classic as far as trends go. It is characterized by its exquisitely tailored look, consisting of a tapered jacket complemented with strongly defined shoulders.

American suits

This is an updated version of the English suit, differing from its founder in that it is tailored closer to the shape of the torso and has a natural form to the shoulders.

Italian suits

This has a cutting edge, sleek, fluid form. Giorgio Armani designs his suits in the Italian style, preferring the design of his homeland to the exotic styles.

Style on a budget

After choosing a suit style, make sure to inspect it to ensure you’re getting what you paid for.

Every well-made suit has darts, side panels, an a-line seam down the back of the jacket that opens to a flap, working pockets and sleeve flaps. Look for a jacket with higher armholes for a more comfortable fit. This will allow for a greater range of motion when compared to a suit tailored otherwise.

It’s common for a first time suit-buyer to fail to realize that they have to cut the thread that the pockets are sewn shut with. The pockets are sewn shut to keep the welt pocket from shifting out of place before it is purchased by the consumer.

Not cutting the strings is one of the biggest giveaways to your peers that the suit you are wearing is the first one that you have ever purchased.

Most people do not realize that there is actually a pocket available to use in a suit jacket. You have to carefully cut the sewn stitch, which is used to keep the pocket in place, and you'll be able to use the pocket. Photograph by Nicole Blankenship
(Click here for more images.)

Be proud of the fact that you are at a point in your life that may require the appropriateness of a suit to be worn at certain events. But do not let people know that by broadcasting dead giveaways. Of course buying a designer suit is out of most people’s price range – but that doesn’t mean you can’t fake it.

Here are some subtle things you can do to trick observers into thinking that you really are wearing a $10,000 suit.

Tailoring

Spending a little extra money on a professionally tailored suit will greatly enhance the overall look.

When the suit fits perfectly, it will not only make you look good, but it also sends the message to people that you can afford to buy a suit that was made especially for you, thus alluding to the idea that you are wealthy and have good taste.

Cufflinks

The buttons on expensive suits touch because they are sewn in by hand, not by a machine on a production line. This is a minor detail that, when expressed on your suit, can make all the difference.

Coordination

After the suit is tailored to fit, the key is to complete the look from head to toe. Each point of the suit needs to be coordinated: the tie, shoes, the undershirt, etc.

Finding a focus

While purchasing pieces for the suit, invest in one expensive piece to use as the focal point. A good starting point is pair of elegant cuff links, or a one-of-a-kind silk scarf that will catch a person’s eye. The focal point item can often become a conversation starter if it arouses enough curiosity.

Color scheme

Make sure to pick colors that go well together. Color illiterate? Go with green.

Think about it. Green naturally occurs with every color in nature. Green is Mother Nature’s signature color – she won’t mind in the least if you make it yours, too.

Accessorizing

Make sure not to offset the natural classiness of the suit by wearing a high-tech cell phone or pager attached to your hip with a gaudy clip-on.